Getaria: Birthplace of Circumnavigation & Fashion

Getaria: Birthplace of Circumnavigation & Fashion 

— by David Eugene Perry

Today, thanks to a quick question to ChatGPT as we headed towards the Casuso’s hometown of Santander, we discovered a surprise along our way: Getaria, the birthplace of Juan Sebastián Elcano, the man who completed the first circumnavigation of the globe, was born. The entrance to the town boasts an enormous monument to his journey, appropriately looking out over the Cantabrian Sea. A life size statue graces the town’s main plaza.

Most people remember Magellan for the voyage, but Magellan was killed in an ill-fated battle in the Philippines—largely his own fault. It was Elcano, a Spaniard from Getaria, who took command after Magellan’s death and brought the Victoria—one ship, out of five—safely back to Spain. His voyage rewrote history, and today, a replica of the Victoria is preserved in Seville.

Getaria is also where Cristóbal Balenciaga, one of the most important fashion designers of the 20th century, was born. Balenciaga, often called “the master of us all,” shaped the world of fashion. Christian Dior once said Balenciaga was the only true couturier, and Coco Chanel declared him a genius. Balenciaga also lived openly as a gay man with his longtime partner, Władysław Jaworowski d’Attainville. His influence is everywhere, from the runways of Paris to the way we think about elegance today. Neither Alfredo or I are “fashionistas” but we appreciated stumbling upon this little rainbow serendipity today.

Naturally, I went into the Church of San Salvador where Elcano is interred. While I stood there, a French couple walked in, unaware of the significance of the place. I was able to share the story of Elcano with them—and just like that, I realized I had done my small part to correct the story and share this vital piece of Spanish heritage.

Magellan planned the voyage but only went halfway. He got the history books, but Elcano started and finished the voyage. Rightfully so, the official tall ship of Spain is named in his honor: El Elcano.

History sets sail.