A Day’s Journey: San Fernando, Sanlúcar – Oh My!
A Day’s Journey: San Fernando, Sanlúcar – Oh My!
— By David Eugene Perry
After a deliciously decadent breakfast at the Parador we head to the Cádiz waterfront, still thinking about how the old city was once a true island, connected to the mainland only by narrow causeways and bridges built in the 20th century. The sea breeze carries centuries of history: Phoenicians, Greeks, Romans, and Moors all left their imprint on this Atlantic outpost.
From there, we cross toward San Fernando, long tied to Spain’s naval tradition, and make a stop at its Maritime Museum. It’s a treasure trove for a “ship nut” like me, and good preparation for my next set of “Liner Lore” maritime history presentations aboard Holland America “Oosterdam” and Seabourn “Encore.”
Here are some highlights.
• A finely crafted model of the transatlantic liner Cristóbal Colón, once a mail steamer running routes from Bilbao, Santander, and Gijón to Havana, Mexico, and New York. Seeing its polychrome wood detail brings to life the glamour of early 20th-century ocean travel. Wrecked in October 1936, she’s the largest wreck (and in shallow water a popular diveable one) off Bermuda l.
• Exhibits on the dawn of Spanish Naval Aviation: in 1917, King Alfonso XIII approved the creation of an aviation branch of the Armada, and by 1925 Spain boasted its first naval planes, dirigibles, and a base at El Prat de Llobregat.
• A bold patch and model of the carrier Dédalo, symbolizing Spain’s modern naval aviation era.
• A moving gallery on the Gesta del Glorioso (1747), when Captain Pedro Mesía de la Cerda fought through successive British squadrons carrying four million pesos of silver. Despite immense odds, he sank enemy ships before finally being forced to strike his colors when his ammunition was exhausted — a testament to Spanish seamanship.
• The haunting, half-preserved bust of the Virgen del Rosario, once carried aboard ships as a patroness of sailors. Hidden texts found inside it during a 2011 restoration speak of prayers for safe passage across dangerous seas. This figurehead was at the bow of one of the Spanish ships during the seminal Battle of Lepanto. The docent, clearly a proud Spanish navy veteran, told me “this is the most important item in the museum.” I would absolutely agree. Lepanto has always fascinated me, and is inarguably one of the most important moments in world history of the last millennium.
• A portrait of Ana María de Soto y Alhama (1775–1833), who disguised herself as a man to serve in the Navy. Fighting aboard frigates and at the battle of Cape St. Vincent, she earned the rank and pension of a first sergeant — proof that courage at sea knew no gender.
Leaving San Fernando, we continue north along the Costa de la Luz. Our first pause is in Rota, a town where the U.S. naval base shapes daily life. Americans and Spaniards mingle here; service members often live off base, while locals find steady work within.
Just beyond is Costa Ballena, the “Whale Coast,” a resort complex of beaches, golf courses, and airy apartments built in the 1990s. Many who work at the base make it home, drawn by its modern comfort and proximity to the sea.
In Chipiona, we crane our necks up at the towering lighthouse, tallest in Spain, then visit the Santuario de Nuestra Señora de Regla, guardian of sailors. Here the legacy of the legendary singer Rocío Jurado, “La Más Grande,” still permeates; her statue by the waterfront is a place of pilgrimage. Only my personal favorite, Lola Flores, is more iconic. but Sadly, both those great talents have passed on, but their music and influence is ubiquitous still — especially in Andalucía. Sweet moscatel wine is Chipiona’s pride, and its golden beaches stretch endlessly, punctuated with bodegas.
Finally, we arrive in Sanlúcar de Barrameda, poised on the Guadalquivir where river meets ocean. As my underway new novel, “Thorns of the 15 Roses”, includes the historical character Juan Ponce de Leon, a visit here from whence he sailed on Columbus’ second voyage is a must. Sanlúcar is drunk with history. Some highlights that especially interest me:
• Columbus’ Second Voyage (1493) provisioned in Sanlúcar before carrying settlers and livestock to the Caribbean.
• His Third Voyage (1498) set sail from this very port, bound for Trinidad and the South American mainland.
A generation later, Magellan departed with five ships in 1519, and Elcano limped back in 1522, completing the world’s first circumnavigation aboard the nao Victoria.
During our brief stop in Sanlúcar, we finally find my traveling San Pancracio statue. It’s tradition for offices, bars and other businesses in Spain to have a small figurine of “The Patrion Saint of Work.” My remote office is now complete.
As we visit the old town, we stop for a vermut and beer. Undoubtedly Juan Ponce de León had one here, too, before starting Christopher Columbus’ second voyage. 🙂 It’s quite the place. This city of only 70,000 was declared “Spain’s Capital of Gastonomy” in 2022. Wineries and especially those specializing in the local sherry, manzanilla, stand cheek to croqueta, along the main plaza leading to the banks of the Guadalquivir from which legendary voyages of discovery departed.
But, the final treat of the day awaited: the Castle of Santiago in the upper part of the old town. Next to historic wineries, including the legendary Barbadillo Bodega is arguably one of Spain’s best preserved and most impressive fortresses. From these ramparts a young Queen Isabella saw the sea for the first time. A few decades later, she was sending Columbus to “The New World” from these very waters.
Well walked and well historied, we return to our favorite Grazalema watering hole, Zulema, and toast an incredible two days walking in the steps of explorers.
